Leica M7

Earlier this year I purchased an early model (2002, year of issue), recently refurbished and pristine, Leica M7. It was not inexpensive. The purchase culminated a year of YouTube videos and internet articles/blogs on the merits of the M6 TTL vs the M7. But first, let me discuss what it was I was looking for in a film camera.

For the past three and a half years my daily, go-to camera has been a Leica M10R. I've written at length in several articles my love for this camera system. Size and simplicity, ergonomics, industrial design, menu system, heritage. The M10R has it all. It has travelled with me to seven countries and numerous U.S. states. With three small prime lenses it is, for me, the perfect travel kit. With one small prime lens attached it is, for me, the perfect "walk around town for a few hours" camera. I love it. The primary mode in which I shoot is Aperture priority (usually f/5.6 or f/8) with Auto-ISO. Sometimes I set Shutter Speed as well, again with Auto-ISO. Easy peasy, solid exposures, wonderful images.

Several years ago I included film as a part of my regular photography. Over that time I've worked through a number of different film camera systems seeking the similar size and simplicity of the M10R. In addition to my old SLRs (1970s through 1990s) I've shot on Canon P, Canon 7, Leica iiif and Leica 3. All of them shot well. Not all were fun to use as certain quirks were sometimes more irksome than endearing. Of those four bodies, the Leica M3 resonated strongly as it fit the M mount lenses I used on the M10R and as the body shape, controls locations and rangefinder system were also very similar. And while I am comfortable shooting Sunny 16 I felt my way ahead needed to include a light meter. 

It was the inclusion of a light meter that led me to investigate the M6, M6 TTL, M7, MA and MP. And it was the design and operation of each of those camera's shutter speed dial which proved to be a critical decision point in my reviews of those bodies. The shutter speed dial on the M6, MA and MP are identical to that on the M3. It is a small dial which, for me, is a bit challenging to manipulate when the camera is to the eye. The M6 TTL and M7 shutter speed dials are larger and overhang the front of the body just enough that they can be manipulated while shooting the camera from the eye position. Exactly as is that dial on the M10R. Also, as important to efficient operation is the size and location of the dial is the direction of motion of the dial in relation to changes in shutter speed. Clockwise motion on the M6 TTL the M7 and the M10R lowers shutter speed. On the other bodies it increases shutter speed. While that does not seem to be a big issue, for me it is. 

The light meter indicator on these cameras is a rudimentary, three red LED display in the bottom of the viewfinder. From left to right there is a right facing arrow, a dot then a left facing arrow. The right facing arrow indicates one or more stops underexposed. The left facing arrow indicates one or more stops overexposed. From the M6 TTL forward, not including the MA and the MP, to the current M11 series, that three red LED system has been the same. If the right facing arrow is illuminated, turn the aperture ring to the right and/or turn the shutter speed dial to the right. If the left facing arrow is illuminated, do the opposite. Very easy, very intuitive. On the M6, MA and MP that small, reversed rotation dial confuses things. Is the right facing arrow lit? Then rotate shutter speed dial to the left. For me this is not intuitive. If I were shooting only an M6 I would develop muscle memory and it would not be a big deal. In fact the M6 is pretty much considered the GOAT of Leica's and are much sought after in the used market. Clearly folks figure it out. However, I didn't want to be in a position where I rotate right on one camera and left on the other to achieve proper exposure. Too hard. Especially after nearly 16,000 shutter actuations on my M10R in the past three and a half years. I really needed the shutter speed dials to move in the same direction. 

Let's recap - shutter speed dial size, location on the top of the camera and rotation modality all common between the M6 TTL, M7 and M10R. Tough decision. Left with the M6 TTL vs M7 dilemma, I spent a lot of time researching technicals, opinions, case studies in an effort to not make an expensive mistake. The M6 TTL is, with the exception of a battery driven meter, a fully mechanical camera. And if the circuit board fries or the battery dies only the meter stops working, the camera continues to shoot, with all shutter speeds available and you are still in business. 

The M7 is a different beast altogether. Its shutter is not mechanical (with two exceptions) but electronic. If the circuit board fries or the battery dies not only do you lose the meter but you are left with only two shutter speeds; 1/60 and 1/125. Still shoot-able but certainly not ideal. Especially at the cost of entry.

However, what the electronic shutter on the M7 does provide that the M6 TTL does not is an aperture priority mode (auto shutter speed). The very same mode I shoot with my M10R 75% of the time. It was clear the shooting experience of the M7 would be nearly identical to the M10R. And that realization got me over the finish line of brain numbing research and onto my favorite camera sites for shopping. It looks a few months to find the right deal. When that deal arrived (thank you Roberts Camera), I pounced. Pictured below is the new-to-me M7, quite literally still in the box, just a minute or so after I opened. Gorgeous. The other pic is about ten minutes later with a CV 28mm f/2 Ultron ASPH mounted and a roll of Portra 160 waiting patiently to be loaded.  

To date I have put 20 rolls of film through the M7. Several different film stocks of color and BW. No issues. In fact, perfect. And best of all, shooting the M7 is (nearly) identical to shooting the M10R. I added (nearly) as there is a slight difference in thickness that I can feel between the two cameras. The M10R is also heavier. And silver. However, the important elements of focusing, metering and composing are exactly the same. 

Interestingly, when shooting the M7, I have not missed Auto ISO. I manipulate Aperture more than I do with the M10R but that is to be expected. When shooting in Aperture priority mode the view finder shows the metered shutter speed. This, combined with an accurate center weighted meter, makes on the fly "Zone System like" meter readings easy to visually integrate while shooting scenes. Certainly, it helped that I had three and a half years of previous experience shooting the identical mode on the M10R. I had already learned how to rapidly evaluate a scene, meter the area where I wanted the correct lighting information, half press to lock in exposure, re-compose and shoot. It sounds so much longer to do than it is in actual practice. Bottom line, for my use case, shooting the M7 is just like shooting the M10R. 

The internet is filled with M7 nay-sayers. Their concerns are either dead batteries or electric circuitry failures. With regard to the first concern, I carry a strip of spare batteries (my goodness they are so tiny). Just as I carry a spare battery for the M10R (not so tiny). Regarding camera failures, the same can be said of any camera. For that matter everything we own that is mechanical or electrical can (and may) fail, and when they fail you get 'em fixed. If something untoward occurs with my M7 I will box it lovingly and ship it to Wetzlar for repair. Yes, it will take a long time. Yes, it will be expensive. Yes, I will be sad. But the day it returns from the Mothership, looking minty fresh in its box, will be a happy day and I will load a battery, mount a lens, and shoot up a truck load of film.

The M7 has been a game changer and it has solidified my love of the rangefinder M system. They are such easy cameras to travel with and to use. I value their small size, their simplicity, their high quality construction and the premium feel in hand. Cheers all.

A few of my M7 favorites from the past year.